Having a beautiful figure needs hard work and dedication but as years pass and having a family and a number of kids would spell the difference. Most often women who have given birth would go to the gym and have some routine work out just to return to their own figure but achieving it would mean strenuous exercises and lifting weights which would sometimes lead to boredom and worn out muscles and worst injuries. We dont want to happen, hence their is an easy way to achieve a fit and lean body and even a six pack abs without lifting weights.tummy tuck
is done through a cosmetic surgery and eliminating the excess body fat that is located in the tummy area. As we all know, the belly is the hardest part to eliminate fat. Thus stomach crunches is not an assurance to have a well chiseled abs even a year of abdominal work out would sometimes lead to failure, dont be fooled on what you see on television about abdominal exercises and the models that has a perfect abs they are gifted individuals and even supplements they are far worst for the side effects are dangerous to your health. You can choose and have the abs that you wanted without the pain.
Tuesday, February 9, 2010
perfect tummy
I was recently introduced to this social interactive media which is the latest craze in town "FACEBOOK". Its fun and very much addicting for it is here that I get to know and meet new friends as well as get acquainted to long lost friends in my elementary and high school years , who are residing in other countries and some are still here in my vicinity the Philipines. HHHHHHHHHHHaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyy, just cant got enough of this media. from time to time i get to open my account just to check on the comments statements that my friends leave in my WALL and come to think of it, I do have a virtual farm That I maintain in plowing and planting crops. Its really fun and somewhat a stress buster that rejuvenates me after a long office work.
Save more on car rentals
Saving my old desktop Pentium 4
The best blog hosting providers
Save more on your airline tickets
Free from debts again
Sunday, February 7, 2010
Waiting for permission
Wednesday, February 3, 2010
Choosing the best online casinos
Computer boxes that I made
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Tuesday, February 2, 2010
My sentiments to the lessee on my fathers inherited property in CEBU
Monday, February 1, 2010
Expanding in the world of business
Friday, January 22, 2010
Welcome to the internet world noel Lazaro
Saturday, January 9, 2010
Coin Slot
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Keisha got a new limited edition sony PSP
Friday, December 18, 2009
Koi Breeding
This is in response to the request of my friend in Australia named Constantino asking for the technical details in growing Koi or Japanese Carps. I have been in this business for quite sometimes that's why I am able to answer all the matter concerns. I hope this will answer your inquiry.
BREEDING YOUR KOI
Basic Considerations in Koi Breeding
When starting a koi breeding or koi propagation program, several aspects must be carefully taken into consideration by the prospective koi breeder (note that in this article, the term 'breeder' may refer to either the person breeding the koi or the koi being bred). Some of these important considerations are discussed below.
1. The Brood Stock. The term 'brood stock' refers to the group of koi that is used for breeding and propagating new koi. It goes without saying that proper selection of the brood stock is very important for the success of any koi breeding program. All koi spawners must be healthy and sexually mature, i.e., they should at least be 2 years old. They must have absolutely no genetic deformities and must possess all the good qualities of excellent koi - perfect body conformation, excellent color quality, balanced pattern distribution, graceful movement, etc.
Koi are prolific breeders, with a single female capable of producing hundreds of thousands of eggs. As such, a breeding program doesn't need a brood stock of enormous size to produce sufficient quantities of fry. It is therefore logical to put emphasis on the quality of the breeders rather than the quantity. The only problem with having limited brood stock is the possibility of genetic inbreeding, so care must be taken to avoid this situation.
The size of brood stock required for breeding depends on the goal of the program. A hobbyist can get what he or she needs simply by pairing two nice koi, while a commercial koi farm that needs to produce millions of saleable fish must have around 100 females and about the same number of males.
2. Propagation. Many of us experienced seeing their first koi fry swimming in the main pond itself. Indeed putting a bunch of healthy male and female koi in a pond with good-quality water and some plants can lead to koi spawning and, consequently, the arrival of baby koi. This is not a good way to propagate koi though. Fry almost never survive in such an environment because they become dinner for their elders first. Fortunately, koi experts have already come up with other ways to propagate koi more efficiently.
Many hobbyists mimic natural koi reproduction under a more controlled environment, following these basic steps: 1) selection of the female and male (2 males may be used but not more than this) for the breeding; 2) preparation of the spawning area including the installation of adequate spawning materials; 3) 'conditioning' of the spawners prior to breeding; 4) introduction of the 'ready' male to the 'ready' female; 5) monitoring of the spawning until the eggs are released onto the spawning material and fertilized by the male; 6) removal of the breeders (or the eggs) from the spawning pond; and 7) adjustment of the pond parameters (e.g., aeration) to achieve successful incubation and nursing of the fry. See also: Basic Koi Breeding Method.
Many advanced koi breeders, however, now employ what is known as the dry fertilization method, wherein a tranquilized ripe female is manually stripped of her eggs, which are collected in a clean, dry bowl. This is done by gently squeezing her belly under dry conditions. The sperms of a koi male are then collected in a beaker by similar methods. The milt in the beaker is then poured into the bowl of eggs so that the sperms can fertilize the eggs. The fertilized eggs are then deposited onto the spawning material in the incubation
4. Nursing of the Fry. Once hatched, the fry are liberated from their confinement, but become exposed to the harsh realities of the outside world. If they are in a well-planned koi fry nursery when they hatch, then they are lucky enough not having to worry about being eaten by predators (mainly their parents). Newly-hatched fry can't swim well, so water turbulence must be kept as low as possible without sacrificing aeration and filtration requirements. The larvae must likewise be provided with high levels of illumination since they are dependent at this point on vision to catch their food. Food supply must also be ample once the fry have hatched. The fry may survive on microscopic organisms in a mature pond. In an indoor hatchery, live food such as Artemia (brine shrimp) nauplii may be used.
Although more and more koi hobbyists are trying to breed koi using the dry fertilization method (thanks in part to the proliferation of YouTube videos showing how to do it), many prospective koi breeders still prefer the classic method of letting pre-selected koi spawn naturally in a pond. The reason for this perhaps is the simplicity of the classic procedure, which consists mainly of preparing the spawning environmen
t and letting the koi do what comes naturally for them. The steps involved in this basic koi breeding method are presented below.
1. Selection of the Parents. Choosing the right parents for your baby koi need not be difficult, but it can sometimes be tricky too. First things first - you need to know which of your koi are female and which are male. Female koi are visibly rounder than male koi, e
specially those that are ready to lay
eggs. Males are slimmer in appearance, and may develop roughness on their gill plates when ready to spawn.
Choose mature koi only for breeding, i.e., they should at least be two years old (younger koi will produce weak offsprings). Experts say that the optimum breeding age is 2-4 years old. Choose only healthy koi with no deformities whatsoever. Both parents should exhibit excellent body conformation and high-quality colors and markings.
Select the parents based on what baby koi you're after. For example, if you want Kohaku fry, then you need both parents to be Kohaku. Some varieties don't result in nice koi when bred togeth
er, so be sure to do a little research on koi variety pairing before doing it (unless you're after the excitement of uncertainty).
Some breeders use two males for a single female during breeding to maximize the yield of the propagation. The breeding act of the koi is very physical and can harm the participants (especially the female if the males are very aggressive), so this ratio of 2:1 must not be exceeded. One advantage of using just a single male is the higher predictability of what the offspring will look like.
Eventually the female becomes rounder and noticeably bloated with eggs. Now with a heavy but soft abdomen, she is presumed to be ready to lay eggs and is very carefully moved to the spawning pond. This pregnant koi must always be supported by water during the move, even while inside a net. At this point the male is also assumed to be ready to participate in the reproduction as well, and is moved into the spawning pond a few hours after the female has already been acclimatized to it. Many breeders introduce the male in the evening, since spawning usually happens in the wee hours of t
he morning.
The spawning pond shouldn't be big - usually with an area of just 6 to 12 sq. meters. It should be thoroughly cleaned and filled with un-chlorinated water to a depth of about 50 centimeters. The spawning pond must have a generous amount of spawning material to encourage the female to lay her eggs on them. Many modern koi hobbyists prefer syntheti
c spawning ropes
SHUSUI
'Shusui' is the term applied to the doitsu version of Asagi. The term 'shusui' translates to 'autumn water.'Just like an asagi, the top half of the body of a shusui is also light bluish in color, while its undersides exhibit red or orange markings. Being a doitsu though, the shusui can not exhibit a netting effect like an asagi, since it has no scales to show reticulation. Instead, an important feature of a shusui is its line of mirror scales running along its spine from the back of the head to its tail.
'Hi Shusui' refers to a shusui koi whose blue body is almost completely covered with red coloration. A hi shusui that exhibits blue mirror scales on both lateral lines is known as 'hana shusui.'
Color
The Shusui's body must be blue in color above the lateral line. The blue color must be of even shade and hue within a single koi, although it may vary from one koi to another.
Aside from the blue color of the shusui above its lateral line, it must have red coloration on the underside of the its body, just below the lateral line. This red color may also appear on all fins, the gill covers, and mouth.
Pattern
The mirror scales of a shusui along its back must be in a straight row with no gaps in between from the back of the head to its tail. The head of a shusui must be clean, i.e., it must not exhibit any imperfections or small black spots.
GOSHIKI
The word 'goshiki' translates to 'five colors.' The original goshiki was developed from the sanke and asagi. Thus, the 'five colors' of the goshiki are the red, black, and white of the sanke and the gray and blue of the asagi.
Appreciation Criteria
Color
The shiro (white) base color of the body must be unblemished, thick, snowy, and even milky underneath the black-and-blue reticulation of the scales.
The hi (red) markings on the white body must be solid, deep, and evenly-colored throughout the entire body. The edges of these markings (also known as the 'kiwa') must be very defined, or as they say, 'sharp as a razor.' The hi color may vary from koi to koi, but it should be of uniform hue within an individual koi. The red markings must not be blemished by any black spots.
Pattern
The red markings on the body must be artistically balanced. This means that they must not be confined to one side or one end of the koi only.
The reticulation effect on the white base color of the goshiki must exhibit a perfect netting effect that is visibly sharp and nicely distributed. Goshiki koi with perfect reticulation on snow-white body are very desirable.
A clean and unblemished head is also a sought-after trait of a goshiki.
KOROMO is also one good variety of KOI
Examples of Koromo'Koromo', which translates to 'robed', is the term applied to a koi that has a white base color, overlaid by red patterns with reticulation. Reticulation refers to scales that form a net-like appearance. In the case of Koromo, these net-like patterns are created by the blue edges of the scales over the red markings. Koromo is basically a cross between Kohaku and Asagi.
Appreciation Criteria
Color
The shiro (white) base color of the body must be unblemished, thick, snowy, and even milky. The shiro must not exhibit any yellowish tint.
The hi (red) markings on the white body must be solid, deep, and evenly-colored throughout the entire body. The edges of these markings (also known as the 'kiwa') must be very defined, or as they say, 'sharp as a razor.' The hi color may vary from koi to koi, but it should be of uniform hue within an individual koi.
Pattern
The red markings on the body must be artistically balanced. This means that they must not be confined to one side or one end of the koi only. An equal distribution of shiro and hi is preferred, so in general a koi heavily marked with red or predominantly white in color is not desired.
The reticulation effect on the red markings comes from the dark blue color of the edge of each red scale. If the scales are lined up in straight rows, they exhibit a perfect netting effect that looks very beautiful. Koromo koi with perfect reticulation on the red markings are therefore desirable.
A clean and unblemished head is also a sought-after trait of a koromo.
UTSURI -koi variety
Shiro Utsuri (3), Ki Utsuri (center), Hi Utsuri (first)Appreciation Criteria
Color
The base color (whether shiro, hi, or ki) of the body must be unblemished, thick, rich, and of uniform hue and quality. The base color must not exhibit any sign of tint of a different color.
The sumi (black) markings of an utsuri must be deep, solid, and shiny lacquer-black. The shape of every sumi marking must be clearly defined, with its kiwa or edges as sharp as possible. Undeveloped sumi may appear mottled dark blue or gray instead of solid black. This is not bad for a young koi, since sumi actually develops as the koi grows older. In fact, spotting a potential champion at a young age involves good anticipation of how well the sumi will develop in the next few years.
The base color and black markings must be artistically balanced. This means that a certain color must not be confined to one side or one end of the koi only. A good example of excellent utsuri pattern is if the black and base colors are interspersed in a 'checkerboard' pattern.
A good utsuri must have both colors on its head. Lightning-shaped sumi that streaks across the head and divides it into two is desirable. This sumi head marking is known as a 'menware.' A V-shaped sumi pattern on the shoulder of an utsuri is also desired. It used to be that judges look for both a menware and this V-shaped shoulder sumi in an utsuri, but nowadays the presence of only one of these is acceptable.
The base of the pectoral fins of an utsuri must be black. This black base area of pectoral fins is known as 'motoguro.' The more defined and confined to the base it is, the better.
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